Served at the chateau at their Vinexpo banquet from magnum and despite the perfect provenance, this did nothing to convince me that the’ 70 is in gradual decline. The bouquet has a slight mustiness to it, Provencal herbs, saddle leather, hints of black tea, cedar and undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced but the fruit seems a little faded, as if the contrast has been dialed down. Nevertheless, it remains commendably elegant towards the finish that seems a little sharp and volatile. This was such a fabulous wine a decade ago but I would drink bottles now rather than later. (NM)
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