A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years. (RP)
Saturated deep ruby. Brooding, rather withdrawn aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, espresso and menthol. Dense and huge yet almost magically elegant, thanks to superb vinosity and tannic spine. This monumental wine boasts extraordinary opulence for a Barolo from Serralunga yet gives no impression of excess weight. Great lingering, vibrant finish. (ST)
Admittedly, Gaja’s 1997 Sperss doesn’t quite hit the high notes it so often does. More often than not, the 1997 has been pretty much open for business, but this bottle is more reticent than other recent examples. (Antonio Galloni -- in an earlier review, dated 2/2012, Galloni describes his best experience of Sperss: 'We caught the 1997s from Piedmont at the very summit of their beauty. Gaja's 1997 Sperss is a wine I have enjoyed often over the years, but this bottle was on another level entirely. The stars aligned as the room tasted this spectacular, utterly breathtaking wine. Words alone can't possibly convey the sheer beauty of the 1997 Sperss. Perfect. That's all I can really say.')
Dark ruby. Loads of blackberry, vanilla and milk chocolate on the nose. Turns to licorice and flowers. Full-bodied, with a subtle tannin structure and fresh and focused fruit. Balanced and pretty wine. Just starting to open. (Web Only—2007)
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