This stunning Ducster remains almost entirely primary at present though I sense that the nose will begin to turn toward the secondary in the next year or two. There is excellent richness and plenty of supporting structure and minerality to the full-bodied flavors yet the usual precision and focus are present in spades on the mouth coating, serious and still moderately austere finish that delivers explosive length. This is going to be an extremely long-lived wine and while I suspect that it should be approachable and enjoyable around 2017 or so, I doubt that it will be fully ready for at least another 10 to 12 years from now. Irrespective of how long it ultimately requires, the 1999 Ducster is going to be one very special wine when it finally gets there. Drink: 2024+
The 1999 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has always been an impressive wine, although here I did not think it quite achieved the level of the bottle poured at the vertical back in September 2010. Noticeably deep in colour, it maintains that sense of opulence on the nose with pastille-like purity: raspberry and wild strawberry, then blackcurrant following later. The palate has very good density and balance, more structure and more sinew than the 2002 Clos des Ducs but not quite the same degree of finesse. This is a little burlier (like many '99s at the moment.) You could approach this now, though I would prefer to leave it another two or three years. (NM)
Deep red. Less explosive but deep nose features cherry, redcurrant, tobacco, milk chocolate and a suggestion of earth. Very rich and firm but less expressive and sweet today than the Taillepieds, and not quite as pristine. But a full, serious, traditionally styled Volnay built for long life in bottle. Finishes with substantial but ripe tannins. (ST)
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