1998 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon SKU #997753

$119.99

VN 97 RP 88-90 ST 90
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  • Bryan Brick
    By: Bryan Brick
    7/2/2016
    K&L Staff Member
    You can argue that 1998 was a terrible year, being the last real El Niño year in California, but to anyone that wants to throw that out there, my retort is this wine. This is Dunn. Mountainy, funky, intense, powerful and sure, with a little bit of Brettanomyces just to make things interesting. I’ve always maintained that this is one of the best wines of the vintage, and 18 years later it looks like I was on to something. Sure, it isn’t squeaky clean, but therein lies so much of its charm. In an era where everything has to be almost clinical, it is so refreshing to find a wine that is not. With vigorous flavors of morels, green olive, sweet currant, shaved fennel and lemon thyme, I’ll take this with prime rib in a second.

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