Bid on this bottle of 2018 Keller Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen "Abtserde" Riesling Grosses Gewächs Rheinhessen (99JS, 97JG, 97VN). James Suckling: "Electrifying minerals take the nose by storm, filling every cavity with limestone, gunflint, iron shavings, stainless steel, iron railings, church spire and billiard table. How much citrus fruit can you fit in your mouth? Drink this and find out! This channels monumental, iron-laced tentacles of flavor to latch onto a kaleidoscope of stoney and rocky flavors. More tension than your head can deal with. " (10/2019)
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2018 Keller Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen "Abtserde" Riesling Grosses Gewächs Rheinhessen (qty: 1)
Electrifying minerals take the nose by storm, filling every cavity with limestone, gunflint, iron shavings, stainless steel, iron railings, church spire and billiard table. How much citrus fruit can you fit in your mouth? Drink this and find out! This channels monumental, iron-laced tentacles of flavor to latch onto a kaleidoscope of stoney and rocky flavors. More tension than your head can deal with.
The 2018 Abtserde is also a brilliant, brilliant wine in the making. The stunning nose delivers a cornucopia of tart orange, pineapple, grapefruit, salty limestone minerality, lemongrass, wild yeasts and a hint of the beautifully musky floral tones to come with a bit of bottle age. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still quite primary in personality, with a stellar core, a beautiful foundation of minerality, racy acids and superb cut and grip on the very, very long, very pure and nascently complex finish. All this legend in the making needs is some time alone in the cellar to blossom properly! 97+
A high-toned, penetrating aromatic display features mint, thyme, iris, honeysuckle, zesty lime and prominently pit-inflected white peach. Shades of this year’s Hubacker: The palate impression here is almost shocking for its sheer lusciousness of fruit, with drippingly ripe honeydew melon joining the peach and lime. Not that this beauty is wanting for Abtserde-typical inner-mouth floral perfume, or for a mineral dimension; a mouthwatering savor akin to raw scallop incorporates salt, chalk and iodine nuances. It’s just that it boasts a generosity of forward fruit and a torrent of primary juiciness as well. A silken feel adds to the wine’s seductive appeal. Musky floral, salty mineral and lusciously fruity elements play against one another on a vibrant, sensationally sustained finish that tugs at the salivary glands and leaves the taster both invigorated and refreshed. This should for many years stand as a high point of its vintage as well as of the Grosses Gewächs genre. (DS)
Gorgeously smoky and spiced, lightly reductive nose, marked by those wild herbs and fumes of spontaneous ferment and ripe pear and smoky stone fruit. The overall effect is more savoury than fruity. So much spice. This is both richer at the moment and more acidic than the preceding GGs and I find it seems less well balanced and extremely difficult to assess. Of course it is intense and persistent but the acidity seems more pointed and less well integrated at the moment. I went back to this wine and compared it with the 2017 and could see better where it might be heading, and on second tasting that saltiness had become more obvious, as well as a chalky texture. This really needs time to both come together, gain some breadth on the palate and to open out. Keller explains that of all their vineyards, this one has the highest level of active lime and takes the longest for the components to integrate. 18++/20 points. (JH)