One of the better non-vintaged Bruts in this month’s quick look at true Champagnes and ranking relatively high in value among its French mates, this expressive, fully autolyzed bottling emphasizes toast over fruit but has just enough of the latter to keep from becoming a yeasty, one-trick pony. As is the case with most all of its Gallic kinsmen under review, it has the balance and mousse we look for in fine bubbles down pat, and it goes a bit further with respect to layering and richness.
The new release of Gosset’s non-vintage Brut Excellence is composed of a blend of forty-five percent Pinot Noir, thirty-six percent Chardonnay and nineteen percent Pinot Meunier. I had not tasted a new version of this fine non-vintage Brut since the summer of 2014, when the base year was 2009, so three years later, I am assuming that this current bottling is from the base year of 2012. The wine shows lovely complexity on the nose, offering up scents of apple, peach, fresh-baked bread, a good base of soil and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is focused, full-bodied and complex, with a good core, bright acids, elegant mousse and very good length and grip on the well-balanced finish. (Drink between 2017-2027)
Flinty at first, this yields scents of orange blossoms and jasmine. It's a rich and robust Champagne, balanced by firm minerality. For sea bass roasted with chanterelles.
Tense and crisp, this is a balanced food-friendly Champagne. It is dry, and its apple- and citrus-like acidity has rounded out with some bottle age. The acidity cuts right through to give the wine a great lift of freshness on the finish. (RV)
Light gold. Ripe pear and white peach aromas are lifted by a gingery element, with a subtle floral nuance emerging with air. Fleshy and broad on the palate, offering plump pit fruit and melon flavors and a bitter kick of orange pith on the back half. That dosage is showing itself. Closes smooth and gently spicy, with good fruity persistence. (JR)
Smoke and forest floor notes are pronounced in this lively Champagne, with accents of crunchy nectarine, toasted almond, honey and lemon curd and firm acidity. (AN, Web Only-2015)
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