($35; includes some merlot and cabernet franc, whereas this winery's Old Vine Reserve is all cabernet sauvignon) Saturated ruby-red. Cassis, bitter chocolate, tobacco, earth, cinnamon and eucalyptus on the nose, lifted by a note of dried rose. Juicy and tightly wound, with sappy flavors of cassis, tobacco, chocolate and roast coffee. As young as this is, it already shows a roundness of texture and a deep sweetness. Finishes with sweet tannins and lingering notes of mocha and vanilla. Like the estate's pinot noir, this needs bottle aging.
This ageable wine is young and tannic now, with an astringent finish. Cherry and blackberry stuffing is down there for the long haul. Best after 2010 and beyond.
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