The 2004 Neiderhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese A.P. #10 displays a positively supernal aroma, combining distilled strength berries, herbs and pit fruits with mysteriously carnal and pungently mineral suggestions. Rich, dense and meaty, plush and creamy in texture, yet bright, animated and rivetingly complex on the palate, this wine offers a bonus of beautifully integrated, exotically spicy, estrous notes of botrytis. (The botrytis berries in the Brucke were picked out to inform Auslesen not so here.) The nearly endless reverberating finish reminds me of the complexity of overtones produced when a second set of hands depresses ten additional keys while you strike a full chord on the piano. On reflection, I was amazed to realize that no wine had so far surpassed a Spatlese from Norheimer Dellchen. But I was even more amazed to be offered at this point yet another wine of the same name! (DS)
Enticing aromas of papaya, sweet herbs and spearmint. Intense but refined cherry fruit rises from the mid-palate, accompanied by brilliant acidity. The riveting finish is complex, spicy and animated, dancing across the palate. An elegant spätlese in its youth, this Riesling has slowly emerged as one of the finest of the vintage. (JP)
The 2004 Hermannshöhle Spätlese is a great young wine in the making, but it is significantly more closed than any of the other 2004 Dönnhoff Spätlesen that I have tasted. The primary nose soars from the glass in a mélange of grapefruit, lemon, incipient notes of petrol, and plenty of slate in the lower registers. On the palate the wine is medium-full and almost painfully intense, with a rock solid core of fruit, bracing acids, brilliant focus, and a very long, slatey and quite closed and powerful finish. The 2004 Hermannshöhle Spätlese has stunning potential, but will need even a couple years longer than the Brücke to fully blossom.
Fine clarity to the peach, red berry and citrus flavors in this round yet vividly structured white. The point-counterpoint between richness and acidity frames the flavors and carries them to a long conclusion. (BS)
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