The star of this extraordinary line-up is Domaine William Fevre’s show-stopping 2004 Chablis Les Clos (domaine). Its creamed stone aromatics are followed by a bold, muscular, powerful character. Medium to full-bodied and ample, it explodes on the palate, unleashing waves of iodine-laced minerals, white fruits, and liquefied rocks. This masculine counterpart to the Les Preuses is suave, seamless, and immensely concentrated. Projected maturity: 2008-2017. Though it is difficult to fathom, Fevre’s 2005 Chablis Les Clos, tasted at an unbelievably young age, was even bigger, denser, and more powerful! Bravo! (PR) 96+
A wonderfully fresh, cool and pure nose reflects some secondary development along with ample Chablis character that includes notes of oyster shell, iodine, citrus and white floral wisps. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the intensely mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that offer both fine richness yet equally good detail on the beautifully long complex and well-balanced finale. While this is still quite youthful I doubt that it will necessarily improve from here and for my taste, the '04 Les Clos is drinking perfectly now even in magnum format.
The 2004 Les Clos from Domaine William Fèvre is even younger and more primary than the Côte de Bougerots, and despite the risk of premox, I would still keep this wine in the cellar another year or two before really beginning to drink it in earnest. The bouquet is outstanding, as it offers up a complex and still slightly green and youthful blend of grapefruit, straw, lime oil, delicate grassy tones, white flowers and a stunning base of flinty minerality. On the palate the wine is deep[, full-bodied, pure and racy, with great focus and cut, a fine core and superb length and grip on the complex and snappy finish. A stellar bottle.
Pale straw-yellow. Aromas of iodine, crushed stone, flint and oatmeal. Wonderfully sweet and creamy, with its pliant mouthfeel firmed by vibrant minerality. Finishes taut and racy, with terrific lift. Very young but not at all hard. This is already suave. (ST)
Refined and elegant, this exudes floral, herb, lemon and mineral aromas and flavors. Harmonious and long, yet tightens up on the finish. *Collectibles* (BS)
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