I have rarely tasted as complex and profound a Pinot Noir as Kalin's 1990 Pinot Noir Cuvee DD from Sonoma. Anyone who is familiar with the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti's magnificent 1980 La Tache might want to try a bottle of Kalin's Cuvee DD for comparison. It possesses a huge fragrance of macerated prunes/plums, smoked meats, jammy raspberries and cherries, and loads of smoke and herb notes. The flavors are reminiscent of tea and smoked duck. The wine is full-bodied, with huge richness, great precision, and freshness, as well as a heady, spicy, lightly tannic finish. It should drink well for 10-15 years. Years ago I remember tasting Kalin's 1979 Pinot Noir Cuvee DD, which was a dead-ringer for one of great grand crus of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Whatever the Leightons are doing with Pinot Noir, the 1990 is a mind-boggling, possibly historic effort.
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