*3 Stars* This wine often reaches exaggerated levels of ripeness and dried grape con-centration, but, in the current vintage, it has displays admirable depth and far-ranging fruit without resort to excess. To be sure, it is wholly concentrated and shows an emphasis on blackberry fruit but in no way does it approach the 2003 which, despite earning 90 points, was described as "out in front of the pack when it comes to sheer volume and unbridled ripeness". Indeed, there is even a touch of latter palate restraint and tightness to be found in this rendition. This is stunning stuff built along the lines of table wine Zinfandel. Bravo.
K&L Notes
An early start to the 2004 growing season caused most of Ridge's Sonoma County Zinfandel to ripen weeks ahead of schedule. Pagani Ranch, in Sonoma Valley, was the exception; these hundred-year-old vines are intentionally pruned late to delay budbreak and avoid spring frosts. A burst of heat in mid-September ripened most of the Pagani fruit, but Ridge waited until mid-October for full flavor in the rest. 76% Zinfandel, 16% Alicante Bouschet, 4% Petite Sirah, 2% Carignane, and 2% Mataro.
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