This full-bodied and highly concentrated bottling is bound to be loved by most and vilified by those who dislike overt size, ripeness and palatal flesh in their Pinot Noirs. It is, without debate from this corner, on the verge of being too much of a good thing, but it carries the Dehlinger hallmarks of polish, depth and focused black cherry fruit all buttressed by the most lavish of creamy oaks, and it will make a very potent partner to a rich standing rib roast. *Two Stars*
Dehlinger’s Pinot Noirs are so reasonably priced that consumers may overlook them. I just finished my last bottle of his 1994 Reserve, and it was still drinking beautifully. The recent releases include the dark ruby-hued 2004 Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard (1,300 cases), which exhibits the cherry/pomegranate side of this varietal. Spicy and medium-bodied with abundant fruit as well as complexity ... (RP)
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