The inky purple 2003 El Nido, which comes from 26-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines (70%) and 61-year-old Mourvedre (30%), was aged 26 months in new French and American oak barrels. It exhibits leathery, creme de cassis, and pain grille characteristics, additional tannin and body, and a formidable palate. A wine of extraordinary extract and richness, it will be a target for old timers and reactionaries who will feel it is too internationally styled, but it is an eye-opening wine from an area better known for large cooperatives and mediocre quality. It should evolve for 15 or more years.
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