Pungent at first, with diesel notes to go with smoky, leesy scents. But give this wine time, because on the palate the quality is immediately obvious. There's great intensity and depth married to elegance and persistence, complexity combined with purity. Flavors of apple, slate and citrus linger seemingly forever. A masterpiece that should easily last until at least 2030. *Editors' Choice* (JC)
Silky and suave, with violet, lime, mineral and scallion aromas and flavors. Concentrated and graceful. Closed for now, this needs a year or so to open up, but will develop well. Fine class and harmony. Best from 2008 through 2025. *Collectibles* (BS)
The Prum 2005 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese smells of talcum and lemon and black raspberry candies. Creamy and faintly oily in texture and impressively clinging in its citrus, berry, vanilla, and wet stone character, this rich Spatlese preserves invigorating fresh fruit acidity even as it nods subtly in a caramelized, honeyed direction. (DS)
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