The Potel 2005 Romanee-St.-Vivant displays absolutely riveting richness and complexity from stem to stern. Roasted meats, soy-like savor and pure essence of elderberry, black raspberry and plum are wreathed in iris and lilies, scented with clove and star anise, and tinged with citrus zest. This saturates and stains the palate, yet in the silkiest, most subtle, tender way while leaving behind a profound sense of minerals. “Lush” and “luscious” gain new meaning. The wine’s sensuality and elegance keeps one from focusing on its sheer density but that too is formidable. Surely this will be worth cellaring for 15-20 years. (DS)
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