Pale yellow. Wild aromas of lemon thyme, melon, beeswax and talc. Savory rather than sweet, with a saline character and solid underlying minerality to the brisk, dusty flavors of ginger, orange oil, chalk and game. Distinctly pungent, soil-inflected chardonnay that I never would have picked as coming from California. Finishes with good chewy density and excellent subtle length.
Tightly wound and well-focused on a core of lychee nut, quince, green apple and light vanilla-scented oak. Very Burgundian in style, weight and balance. Drink now through 2012.
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