I don’t know whether it’s me, the vintage character, or whether Randy Dunn and his son have intentionally softened their wines, but these 2004s are more opulent and up-front than previous renditions. Yet, they lack neither concentration nor richness. Those of us who have been cellaring Dunn’s wines for twenty years, waiting for them to reach maturity should be thrilled by this new development. The Howell Mountain is denser and richer with blacker fruits as well as more body. Both are full-bodied, powerful Cabernets very much in keeping with his style. However, the tannins are softer and the wines reveal surprisingly developed aromatics. It is a brilliant achievement. (RP)
Bright ruby-red. Aromas of black cherry, currant, underbrush and sweet oak, with medicinal and roasted nuances. Supple and broad in the mouth, with flavors of dark fruits, mocha, chocolate and fresh herbs. I get the impression of a rather wide range of ripeness. (ST)
Dark, intense and concentrated, with a gamy, earthy streak running through the dried currant, sage and herbal notes. Balanced, with firm, chewy tannins. Best to cellar. (JL)
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