An expressive, elegant and high-toned red pinot fruit nose that is still quite primary is nuanced by floral, spice, earth and discreet game hints. There is lovely detail to the mineral-suffused middle weight flavors that have the classic Champans reserve and touch of austerity on the wonderfully long finish. This will require time as the tannins are fine but dense.. Lovely juice but clearly meant for the patient.
The 2005 Volnay Champans appears to betray its complete reliance on whole clusters both in its floral aromas and in spicy and resinous notes that follow on the palate. A ripe but tart cherry-rhubarb fruit melange tinged by vanilla cream is also omnipresent, and there are aromatic hints of the mushrooms so typical for this site. Tannic, layered and concentrated like the Mitan, this however displays an emerging flattering creaminess of texture and an evocative clarity of finish fruit and spice which is as yet lacking from that rather seized-up wine. (DS)
Good medium red. Spicy red berries, minerals and herbs on the nose, along with a faint lactic quality. Supple on entry, then minerally and pungent in the middle, showing much more energy and tannic structure than the Brouillards. The strong mineral quality carries through on the persistent finish, where the firm tannins are quite fine. (ST)
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