Of all the Chevillon wines, their 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains -- like their Cailles and Les St.-Georges, from roughly 80-year-old vines -- displays the greatest density, stoniest minerality, most piquant nuttiness, and deepest, darkest, blackberry and beet root 'fruit' character. The overall impression is breath-taking in its sheer concentration, yet rather somber and brooding in personality, with an emphasis on piquancy, bitterness and stoniness. Toasted walnut and hickory, cherry pits, black chocolate, stones, and charred meat inform this wine’s powerful, penetrating finish. Were it not for a persistent primary blackberry juiciness and the great refinement of its abundant tannins, this would border on the hyper-concentrated. (DS)
This is particularly ripe yet the nose is fresh and expressive with its dark raspberry fruit, earth, violet and slightly sauvage notes but the big, robust and amply muscled flavors are brooding to the point of being intensely primary and borderline backward. This is the most structured wine of the range but there is so much extract that the tannins are almost completely buffered, which will permit a long if slow evolution. This is a dramatic effort that isn't quite as classy as the Les St. Georges or Les Cailles but it is likely to be the last wine standing as it were some decades hence. *Sweet Spot, Outstanding*
Good full ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, dark chocolate and leather; a bit less minerally and floral than the Saint-Georges. Powerful, brooding and large-scaled on the palate but currently locked up tight and showing less sweetness than the Saint-Georges. But this big boy really saturates the palate. With its serious tannic clout and leathery soil tones, this is classic Nuits-Saint-Georges. (ST)
The 2005 Vaucrains is deep and relatively civilized out of the blocks this year, without any of the wild animal aspects that can make tasting young Vaucrains such a formidable task. The bouquet is deep and quite primary, as it offers up notes of black cherries, plums, dark chocolate, venison, earth, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and closed, with a rock solid core of fruit, a serious tannic structure, and good length and grip on the finish. I would have loved to see a bit more elevating acidity here, but this may just be the stage for the wine. (Drink between 2017-2045)
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