The magnificently pure and airy essence of notably ripe dark pinot fruit, cassis and menthol remains reserved and cool with its exceptionally rich, classy, sweet and vibrant mineral-driven and large-scaled flavors that are shaped by powerful if buried tannins. While magnificently long, this stunning Ducster is completely shut down at present and it would be a vinous crime to open one at this very early point in its development as the '05 is built for the very long haul, indeed 20 years may be too soon. In my view, the '05 Ducster is destined to take its place alongside the greatest vintages of the past, and while the words 'best ever' are presumptuous in a wine with such a distinguished history, the mere fact that it has the potential to be among the very best ever is praise enough.
The d’Angerville 2005 Volnay Clos des Ducs displays even more obvious structure than the Champans as well as concentration and complexity than the Taillepieds. Deep, rich meatiness, juicy fresh black fruits, bitter-sweet chocolate richness, ginger and cardamom, and chalky minerality are present throughout. This displays enough inner-mouth perfume and fineness of flavor to hold one’s interest and release one’s saliva for an extended period. Fine-grained and finely-integrated tannins are part of this wine’s tenacious cling. It will surely figure as one of the best in a long and distinguished line and be worth following for 15-20 years. (DS)
Good deep red. The most closed and medicinal on the nose of these 2005s, hinting at red fruits and mint. Then big, broad and sweet, with lovely seamless texture but also very good framing acidity and lively minty lift. This is so harmonious today that it's hard to latch onto a single dominant element. But the subtle, rising finish features wonderfully fine tannins and terrific subtle depth of cherry and raspberry fruit, not to mention the grip for a long and positive evolution in bottle. (ST)
A little reticent, showing subtle cherry and berry notes on a dense, rich profile. Peppery and vibrant, with sweet fruit, solid tannins and a long, long finish. Everything is in the right proportion, but this needs time. *Collectibles* (BS)
Smudgy crimson. Quite raw still on the nose - although wonderfully subtle and gorgeous on the palate. Dry finish and slightly crackling tannins - sort of taffeta. Great intensity but very noble. Almost grating energy but wonderful intensity. Fantastic texture, intensity and complete. Hidden. Liquorice. 19/20 points (JR)
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