Exotic scents of apricot, pineapple, citronella and honey are still marked by oak. On the palate, this is rich and creamy, almost massive, but unfolds in waves, with fine structure and a long mineral finish. All the elements are there for a great future. As perfect a young white Burgundy as I have tasted. (Web-2012) (BS)
Not much time has passed between my last tasting of this wine that appeared in Issue 31 and this most recent bottle so my note is essentially unchanged: An opulent, ripe and moderately oaked in-your-face nose explodes from the glass, bringing incredibly complex and layered aromas that run from floral, citrus, spice and a full range of white and yellow fruit notes that complement to perfection the lush, rich and amazingly concentrated broad-scaled flavors that are underpinned by an intense minerality and a palate staining finish of simply unbelievable length. At this young stage, this is a massive Montrachet that is long on power and muscle and while it's not as elegant as say the 2000, 2002 or 2004 versions, I believe that the refinement one typically finds in this wine will come in time. In sum, for sheer vinous fireworks, this is hard to beat and to call it a "wow" wine would be a considerable understatement. However, note that plenty of time will be required and it will be one of the longest-lived vintages in recent memory. A great, great effort.
Picked even later than the reds – perfectly healthy berries but, as always with Montrachet, with marvellous freshness. Deep gold already. Quite exceptionally concentrated, dense and savoury. Straight-backed, rigorous nose with lots of sap and minerals but richness too. 'It always feels like a sin to drink this wine', says Aubert de Villaine, referring to just how easy and rewarding it is to do so. This is a substantial meal of a wine that insistently pulls the taster in to the spicy, creamy but not at all sweet fume that hovers over the tingling elixir. 19.5/20 points. (JR)
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