This is every bit as elegant as the Clos St. Jacques but even deeper and broader with incredibly complex and ultra refined red berry, especially raspberry and cherry, fruit aromas that are also classy and relatively cool given how ripe the nose is. The balanced, refined and mouth coating flavors possess superb vitality and serious depth plus the transparency and harmony of expression is nothing short of remarkable. Buy it if you can find it.
The 2005 Fourrier Griotte is another brilliant bottle in the making. It is a quintessential example of this lovely vineyard, as the wine soars from the glass in a perfume of red cherries, fraises de bois, orange zest, roses, chalky soil tones, hints of the meatiness to come, mustard seed, woodsmoke and the faintest framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and extremely elegant, with great intensity, a rock solid core of sappy fruit, striking soil inflection, ripe and velvety tannins, and laser-like focus on the long, tangy finish. Another brilliant 2005 from Jean-Marie Fourrier. (Drink between 2017-2060)
Good deep red. More reticent on the nose than the Clos Saint-Jacques, as with the same wines in 2006: blueberry, black raspberry and musky animal nuances. Silky in texture but currently showing much less sweetness than the Clos Saint-Jacques. In fact, this is downright inscrutable today. Amazingly, my recorked bottle was still full of life eight days later, showing sweet tannins and a redder quality to its fruit. This one will need a good decade in the cellar. (ST) 94+
Each of the Clos St.-Jacques’s five owners, Fourrier observes, owns a strip from top to bottom, and the resultant diversity of microclimate and soil structure he thinks in part accounts for the complexity and balance of the wines. If there is additional virtue to be discovered in official grand cru terroir, Fourrier opines, then in the case of his 2005 Griottes Chambertin, that consists not in weight or structure but in elegance and refinement. Subtly chalky (and chalk shards, not cherries, are the real origin of the name 'Griotte') yet juicily refreshing and with striking fresh black raspberry fruit purity, this beauty boasts a silky texture and a polished finish mingling licorice, cinnamon and clear, sweet fresh raspberry fruit. Its harmony and refinement make it almost irresistible even now, but no doubt a decade or more in the cellar will be rewarded, too.
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