Il Poggione selects its Brunello from vines that are at least 20 years old, when they've rooted deeply through the subsoil and can weather the intense heat of a vintage like 2003. This brooding wine is all muscle when first poured, with powerful tannins supporting rich plum flavor. It reveals more definition with air, the fruit aspect turning redder (strawberries, cherries) even as the sinewy tannins maintain their firm grip. Classically styled, with immense structure supporting its many layers, this wine will continue to develop over the next decade.
I found the 2003 Brunello di Montalcino a difficult wine to understand. I imagine the warmth of the vintage is a significant factor, but the 2003 is a decidedly modern, lush Brunello from Il Poggione. As this full-bodied Brunello opens in the glass, notes of dark fruit, leather, spices, chocolate and tobacco emerge, supported by the firm tannins that are the hallmark of this vintage. There is notable clarity here, but fans of the estate should expect an atypically ripe style in this vintage. (AG)
Lively dark crimson. Very roasted and come-hither on the nose. Very true style -- I can't spot anything other than Sangiovese! -- but good refreshment on the finish too. 17/20 points. *Good Value* (LM)
Good deep red. Redcurrant, fresh raspberry, roasted coffee and smoke on the nose. At once sweet and firm-edged, with spicy red berry and leather flavors complicated by licorice and gingerbread and framed by juicy acidity. Finishes with a solid tannic spine and very good clarity of flavor-plenty ripe but in need of some patience. (ST)
Shows lovely fresh, ripe fruit aromas on the nose, with dried cherry and dark chocolate. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a fresh, balanced finish. Best after 2010. (JS)
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