At this point in the tour de force of Spätlesen in the Dönnhoff cellars this year, I was beginning to run out of superlatives, but the 2007 Brücke Spätlese managed to take everything up another notch in quality. The bouquet today is a tad less flamboyant than the last couple of wines, as it offers up a very precise and coolly reserved nose of grapefruit, apple, slate, petrol, bee pollen, wild yeasts and lemon zest. On the palate the wine is medium-full, tight and sleek, with a rock solid core of fruit, great tensile acidity, brilliant delineation and soil inflection and stunning length and grip on the very, very racy and still very primary finish. The last two Spätlesen seemed almost endless on the finish, but the 2007 Brücke Spätlese is noticeably longer, and in the fullness of time will apogee at an even higher level. Brilliant juice. (Drink between 2014-2045)
Lemon, grapefruit, red raspberry and persimmon rise from the glass of 2007 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spätlese, whose palate dynamics seem like chamber music after the thundering, orchestral Kupfergrube. Saline and wet stone mineral notes as well as deep, malty, nut oil richness compliment the berry and citrus and the finish here is simply ravishingly intricate. Look for 20 or more years of fascination. (DS)
Subtle aromas of lichee, lemon oil and smoked pine nuts. Rich tropical fruits with a hint of smoke and an intriguing piquancy on the palate. A subtle acidity gives the sweet, spicy finish a rather feminine aspect. Very nicely balanced. (JBP)
An elegant, playful white, with grapefruit, apricot, vanilla and mineral flavors dancing across the palate. Fine intensity and a lingering finish. (BS, Web Only-2009)
Some oily spice at first, touch of linseed. Rich, deep but a real lightness of touch to a dancing finish. (JH) 18/20 points
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