Readers looking for super-intense, ripe wines will be thrilled with the 1998 Shiraz/Cabernet JSM (2,500 cases). A blend of 61% Shiraz, 24% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is loaded. Opaque purple-colored, with a sumptuous nose of black fruits and spicy new oak, it is explosive on the palate. With an unctuous texture, a full-bodied personality, and intense black cherry/cassis flavors, this is a sensationally layered effort with a 45-second finish. This kind of wine can only be produced in selected areas of California and Australia. It is the antithesis of the polite, restrained, austere style of Bordeaux for which France is so famous. Look for it to drink well young, yet last for 15-20 years.
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