I had a chance to retaste this side by side with its 2008 counterpart and the '07 matches the brilliant quality albeit in a different style due to the vintage characteristics. As such, I am raising my rating slightly. An aggregator is how I would describe this nose as the range of aromas and subtle nuances is genuinely amazing with a purity of expression that is nothing short of riveting with the classic assertive mineral reduction character that suffuses the character of this wine from the incredibly detailed nose to the wonderfully long, palate staining finish. The big, rich, powerful, detail and superbly focused flavors are supported by a very firm acid backbone that confers a bone dry quality to the finish that I could still taste hours later. In brief, at the moment this is more extract of Kimmeridgian stone than wine but it's breathtakingly good. Don't miss it.
The 2007 Les Clos from Domaine William Fèvre is another brilliant wine in the making. The bouquet is stunning, as it soars from the glass in a mix of flint, wet stones, apple, tangerine, grapefruit, incipient notes of petrol and a topnote of spring flowers. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep, very pure and utterly complete, with great mid-palate depth, excellent focus and grip and a very long, palate-staining and soil-driven finish of immense length and complexity. A great bottle of Clos.
From the largest of the Chablis Grand Cru, this wine shows a lively fruit character but also a powerful, taut mineral streak that comes through to dominate. There is no doubt this needs aging, with its steely edge and vivid acidity. *Cellar Selection* (RV)
Bright, pale yellow-green. Compellingly aromatic nose offers lime oil, ginger and crushed rock. Sharply delineated if quite backward today, projecting great purity, intensity and energy. Compared to the Preuses this is showing less volume but more energy, with an even higher pitch to its aromas and flavors. My style of Clos! The rising finish really dances on the palate. Give this one at least five years in the cellar. (ST) 95+
The Fevre 2007 Chablis Les Clos perpetuates this collection’s theme of improbably mineral-like scents and tastes, emphasizing the pungent iodine aspect of crustaceans and sheer crushed stone. For all of its implacable underlying density -- at sea level, as it were -- this displays succulence along with a more dynamic exchange of citrus, spice, and mineral than in most exemplars of this great site in this vintage. There is a certain severity to the almost indelible, memorable meld of iodine, chalk, spice, and citrus oil that constitute this wine’s finish, but it needs several years in bottle and should be worth following for at least a decade thereafter. (DS)
This is both rich and elegant, with floral, lemon cake, apple and mineral aromas and flavors. Balanced and classy, with a long, mouthwatering aftertaste. (BS)
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