Pol Roger’s excursion into a bone-dry Champagne brings a house style with natural weight up against an almost bony wine style. The resulting mix is certainly dry, edgy, very crisp, leaning towards austere. Extra bottle time would help the wine to gain weight and flesh out the structure.
First released in 2007, Pure is a zero dosage champagne, 33% each chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. A wonderfully elegant very pretty nose of citrus, brioche and floral nuances gives way to robust flavors that possess a borderline aggressive effervescence. There is a real sense of vibrancy here that is enhanced by the clean, crisp and lightly citrus-infused finish that displays just a hint of bitterness that good Champagne sometimes does.
The NV Brut Nature Extra Cuvee de Reserve Pure is an attractive, mid-weight Champagne with excellent delineation, fine overall balance and a round, pleasing finish.
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