The 2009 Pagodes De Cos is a blockbuster that I wish I had more of in the cellar. A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot (there’s a small amount of Petit Verdot) brought up in roughly 50% new French oak, its deep purple/plum color is followed by a smorgasbord of black raspberry and kirsch like fruits, spice box, dried flowers and licorice. With a huge mid-palate, sweet, sweet tannin, beautiful purity of fruit, and a great finish, it’s an incredibly sexy, satisfying second wine that will keep for another 10-15 years.
The brilliant 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos actually has more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than the grand vin (69% versus 65%) in addition to mostly Merlot and a small quantity of Petit Verdot. As powerful as the Cos in terms of alcoholic clout (14.5%), the full-bodied, round, generous Les Pagodes de Cos exhibits lots of creme de cassis and floral notes intermixed with hints of wood/barrique and spice. Juicy, succulent and remarkably fresh and well-delineated, it merits considerable attention from consumers. It should drink well for 15-20 years. Oddly enough, the second wine is superior to many vintages of Cos in the 1960s 1970s and 1980s!
Spices, nutmeg, dark fruits on the nose, follow through to a full body, with very precise tannins and a long finish. A beautiful and racy wine. Second wine of Cos d'Estournel. Better in 2017.
The 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos takes a few swirls of the glass to unfurl, perhaps never quite clicking into fifth gear. Tobacco-stained black fruit, briary and woodland scents eventually emerge; with decanting I suspect this would transmute into an attractive bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, quite symmetrical and extremely well balanced. It is not the most powerful or complex northern Médoc and yet there is surfeit elegant and poise. Enjoy this now and over the next decade. Perversely, I prefer this to the Grand Vin! Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting. (NM)
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