Even better is the 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Like its older sibling, it exhibits an inky/blue/purple color followed by an attractive bouquet of creosote, tar, creme de cassis, incense, and flowers, but no evidence of oak. This full-bodied, beautifully layered, stunningly pure, long effort is one of the most compelling Cabernet Sauvignons I have tasted from South Australia. It can compete with the best of Napa Valley or Washington State in terms of New World Cabernet Sauvignons. It should evolve over the next 10 years, and last for another decade thereafter. (RP) 96+
Saturated ruby. Bound-up aromas of blackberry, black licorice, shoe polish and mint. Painfully intense and powerfully structured, but currently hard-edged and brooding. Flavors of licorice and shoe polish currently dominate. Finishes with powerful tannins and superb length. A huge, muscular wine that will almost certainly merit a higher score with a few years of additional bottle aging. This seems rather powerfully extracted, like the '97, but here the vintage has provided stronger raw material. (ST) 92+
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