Coming from his Felsenturmchen acreage (noted on the price list and alluded to on the wine's label by a sketch of the stone tower in question) Donnhoff's 2009 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Spatlese smells strikingly and multifariously of elder flower, cassis, lime, and a cooling array of green herbs. Silken in texture, palpably dense, yet delicate, this delivers a kaleidoscopic, refreshing, and practically ethereal interaction of floral perfume, luscious citrus, herbal essences, and saline, stony and smoky mineral nuances. What it lacks in sheer seductiveness vis-a-vis its Kirschheck counterpart, it makes up for in intricacy and energy. This should dazzle for 20-25 years. (DS)
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