Notes of anise and clove distinguish this robust Oloroso, accenting its salinity. It recalls the coasts of Jerez with aromas and flavors of iodine, salt and the signature earthy dampness of Hidalgo's very old soleras. Firm on the palate, with sharp acidity that penetrates the depths of the wine's flavors, this would be delicious with clams sautéed in olive oil and garlic.
Shows lovely focus and persistence, with a prominent thread of bitter almond that runs from start to finish, while singed clove, dried orange peel, juniper, roasted cedar and ginger notes fill in the remaining space. Long finish. (JM)
Gentle, layered textured, chewy. Subtle but not thin. 16.5/20 points. (RH)
The NV Gobernador Oloroso, bottled at about 12 years of age, shows a deep amber color with some green tints and a nose of tobacco and hazelnuts. The dry, medium- to full-bodied palate is intense and persistent, ending dry and long. (LG)
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