The 2009 William Fèvre Les Clos is a brilliant wine in the making. This is one of the most minerally complex examples of the vintage that I tasted during my trip, as the wine simply soars from the glass in a profound blend of green apples, tart orange, smoke, flint, wet stones, crystalline soil tones and a really lovely, floral topnote redolent of white flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure on the attack, with great mid-palate intensity, brisk acids, laser-like focus and stunning length and grip on the multi-faceted finish. A great, great wine.
Here the wood influence is somewhat more noticeable though not enough to materially detract from the otherwise pure, cool and high-toned white flower, stone and sea breeze suffused aromas that complement well the rich, powerful and intensely mineral-driven flavors that possess fine focus and verve on the explosively long and oyster shell-infused finish. This is seriously impressive in absolute terms but especially so in the context of the vintage.
The 2009 Chablis Les Clos is a beauty. Stunningly rich and deep, it possesses gorgeous textural richness and depth in its layers of intensely perfumed peaches and apricots. The fruit totally saturates the palate with incredible depth and nuance in its perfume. Seductive and enthralling at first, the Clos turns positively explosive on the finish. Gorgeous, expressive scents linger on the close. Fevre’s parcels are on the limestone-rich upper slopes of Les Clos. About 50% of these vineyards were planted in the 1940s. (AG)
The Les Clos sports a Zen-like, minerally bouquet that is a little introspective at first. The palate has a crisp entry, very good weight with limestone, citrus lemon, a faint touch of white peach and a touch of spice towards the finish. This will need a little time, but a class act. (NM)
Pale yellow. Subtle stone and citrus fruit aromas complicated by white pepper and a whiff of honey. Wonderfully rich and solid in the mouth, but with a distinct youthful austerity to the flavors of orange peel, iodine and pepper. The palate-dusting finish is tactile, dry and extremely long. This aristocratic wine is still an infant and may well merit an even higher score with extended cellaring. (ST) 93+
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