This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity.
A solid wine with dried strawberry and cherry character with hints of lemons and dried meat that follow through to a full body, with medium chewy tannins and a fruity finish. Robusto fruity style but some balance at the same time. Lovers of fruit-forward Pinot will like this. Better in 2013.
Ripe black-cherries are comfortably combined with a fair bit of toasty oak in vital young aromas of this nicely defined wine, and what is promised in the nose is delivered in kind by the plush, yet well-composed, flavors that follow. Like all of the very good 2009 DuMOL offerings, this one is simply brimming with fruit, but it needs to age past the tart edge of eleventh-hour acidity that presently cuts off its finish, and we recommend a wait of at least two or three years.
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