A staggering Chardonnay that’s still an infant, the light yellow/green/gold 2007 offers up notes of unbuttered popcorn, orange liqueur, lemon butter, quince and crushed rocks. It possesses terrific underlying acidity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and a youthfulness and freshness that suggest this wine has two decades of life ahead of it. This majestic Chardonnay seems more French than Californian, but again, this reflects the significance of the labor of these two overachieving, push-the-envelope visionaries. What California viticulture and high-class, minimalist winemaking can achieve is exhibited in bold fashion by this 2007. It will hit its prime in 5-7 years, and appears to be a replay of the 2002 stylistically as well as for its overall potential. (RP) 99+
This white moves gracefully from primary flavors of peach and citrus to a broader range of charred oak, mineral, and even a scent of butterscotch. Smooth, deep and rich, the attractive charred oak quality lingers, as this reverberates on the finish. Drink now through 2020. (JL)
This extreme style is a high-wire act, but the 2007 is a definite hit. Aromas of lemon custard, orange rind, wet rocks, honeysuckle, white peach and buttered popcorn burst from the glass, followed by a vibrant, seamless, layered impression on the palate, and a long finish. This is definitely a ripe, oaky wine, but a real success in the genre. (WK)
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