The 2009 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is a beauty. A blend of 60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and the rest an assortment of varieties, all from La Crau, it exhibits a traditional, muscular bouquet of both red and black fruits, white pepper, rolled stone, iron, and spice cabinet-like characteristics. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, structured wine that has a firm, focused feel, solid concentration, and an edgy, long finish. Overall, this is an old school, classically styled wine that’s meant for aging; it will need time to be approachable. I would give bottles 5-7 years in the cellar, and then plan on drinking them over the following 10-15 years.
This is crammed with fruit, spice and structure, as braised fig, plum skin, cassis and anise notes wrestle with roasted apple wood, melted red licorice and tar for now. The embedded grip should carry the finish until this assimilates fully. (JM)
Bright ruby. Intense red fruit and potpourri aromas show excellent precision and a suave, spicy character. Licorice and lavender nuances add complexity to juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, with the wine putting on weight in the glass. Finishes taut and youthfully tangy, with echoing licorice and spice notes. (JR)
This 135-acre estate (all in the famed La Crau) has produced a 2009 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape composed of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the rest other authorized varietals (from vines that average 60 years of age). The wine is aged 18 months in foudres and concrete tanks. This classic offering had just been bottled before my visit, so it was probably tighter than it will be in 6-12 months. Deep ruby/purple-colored with notes of garrigue, seaweed, licorice, plums, black cherries and raspberries, it typically reveals a Mediterranean sea breeze-like character that is difficult to articulate. The sweetness of the tannin, full-bodied mouthfeel, and evolved style remind me somewhat of the 1983, which is still drinking beautifully. The 2009 can be consumed now or cellared for two decades. (RP)
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