A very fresh and very Gevrey nose of red berry fruit, earth and underbrush leads to supple, round and vibrant middle weight flavors that possess good precision and underlying tension though also noticeable finishing acidity that is not especially well-integrated, at least not yet.
The Rousseau Gevrey villages is always impeccably made, and the 2008 will take its rightful place amongst a long string of excellent examples. The wine offers up a lovely, red fruity nose of cherries, raspberries, mustard seed and a complex base of soil. On the palate the wine is medium-full, beautifully transparent and tangy, with modest tannins, lovely focus, a solid core and a long, tangy and focused finish. Just a very classy and succulent bottle of Gevrey. (Drink between 2013-2030)
he Rousseau 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin smells of black tea, smoked meats, and fresh red berries, comes to the palate delicate and tart though subtly suggesting creaminess, and with an appealing, bittersweet note of tangerine oil emerging in a finish of invigoration and slightly awkward sizzle, reinforced by residual CO2. This should be appealing for short-term consumption, and perhaps more expressive after it sheds some CO2. Eric Rousseau did not begin harvesting until September 28, but was finished already on October 4, with – as usual – the entire burden of selection placed on his pickers. The resultant wines prove that, as he puts it “they know what they’re doing” and sorting tables are unnecessary. Grapes came in between around 12% and 13.2%, were virtually all destemmed, and were only lightly chaptalized. Levels of malic acid were however higher even than in 2004, reports Rousseau, who compares the fruit with that of 1996, but does not finger the wines as strong candidates for long-term aging (“long term” – bear in mind – meaning upwards of 20 years in the context of a Rousseau track-record). When I tasted his 2008s in late February, Rousseau was planning to bottle them in March or April, a bit earlier than usual, although several struck me as relatively unformed. But then, his malos had finished by July – not late in terms of the vintage. (Unfortunately, I had only one chance to taste Rousseau 2007s: fleetingly, selectively, at a stage too early to merit reporting (DS)
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