The massive 1998 Shiraz Seven Acres performed better than it did in its youth. A nuanced, complex bouquet of black fruits, forest floor, graphite, licorice, and leather precedes a peppery, full-bodied Shiraz of extraordinary concentration, density, freshness, and vivacity. While vibrant, exuberant, and huge, it is not over the top, nor does it exhibit any evidence of wood. (RP)
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