The elegance of the finest examples of the 2009 vintage is very much on display in this great young vintage of Vaucrains. The beautifully pure nose offers up scents of red and black cherries, blood orange, a great base of complex soil tones, game, woodsmoke, coffee, raw cocoa and a nice touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and nicely reserved, with a great core of fruit, brilliant minerality, ripe tannins and simply stunning length and grip on the endless finish. A great, great bottle of Nuits. 95+
Here too there is a subtle touch of wood that does not interfere with the clear expression of the intensely earthy and sauvage character of lightly spiced red berry and cassis aromas. The supple yet quite concentrated broad-shouldered flavors are supported by very firm tannins before culminating in a tension-filled, serious and notably austere finish that is intense to the point of being borderline painful. This should be very long-lived because despite being a very big wine, the balance is faultless.
The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Vaucrains is fascinating to taste after Les St. Georges. In 2010 the Vaucrains is more finessed and elegant than the St. Georges, but in 2009 those rules are reversed, as it is the Vaucrains that comes across as far more imposing, inward and structured. Today the Vaucrauins is implosive and seems to be holding back much of its potential. Firm yet well-integrated tannins frame the fruit through to the tense, wiry finish. The Vaucrains needs to be buried in a deep, cold cellar for several years, perhaps considerably longer, although I am optimist by nature. (AG)
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