Showing the same slightly uneasy mix of edgy tartness and high ripeness found in its hot and lean East Bench companion, this year's Geyserville may be a fairly deep wine, but it comes with a couple of caveats. It is very tight, and its acid-amplified tannins are too dominant just now, yet its resilient fruit somehow fights through and survives at the finish. While useful with the likes of marinated lamb in the near term, this is one that wants laying down for a good five or six years. *One Star*
Glass-staining ruby. Ripe cherry and blackberry aromas are complicated by suggestions of mace, star anise and smoky herbs. Sweet dark fruit flavors pick up a refreshingly bitter quality with air, along with a note of candied violet. Spicy and broad on the finish, which clings with impressive sweetness and persistence. This wine drinks well now, especially with a bit of aeration. (JR)
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