The 2003 Dom Pérignon remains surprising for its body, freshness and overall intensity. A Champagne of phenolic power and resonance, the 2003 drinks well now, but also clearly has the stuffing to age. I was hardly surprised to learn that a P2 Edition will be released within the next year or so. My basic feeling about the 2003 remains the same – it is a Champagne that will only be fully appreciated down the line. (AG)
2003 was a controversial vintage in Champagne because of the intense summer heat in Europe that year. For Richard Geoffroy, this was the most extreme and challenging vintage in his 30-year career at Dom Perignon. The heat meant the vines began to shut down, while the sugars were moving off the scale, so he took the decision to pick very early. In doing so, he saved the day. ‘For me, this was a seminal vintage and gave us confidence that we could make good wines in warm years like '06 and '09,’ says Geoffroy. The acidity is certainly soft and languorous here, with a full, ripe and densely textured palate displaying a spectrum of flavours ranging from cappuccino to bruised apple, cream and caramel, followed by a savoury edge and a pleasing bitterness on the finish. This is now fairly mature but will keep a while longer. (JS)
The 2003 Dom Pérignon is maturing very gracefully in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of smoke, bread dough, waxy lemon rind and confit citrus. On the palate, the wine is ample, vinous and full-bodied but retains excellent definition, and it's structured around chewy dry extract from mature skins, which compensates for its comparative lack of acidity. It will be interesting to follow its evolution over the coming decade. (WK)
An impressive take on the 2003 vintage, this layers broad, rich and toasty flavors into a powerful wine. It’s full-bodied, almost meaty in its satisfying depth. Match its warmth to ris de veau.
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