Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2008 Clos de Vougeot reveals notable intensity and power in its rich, textured fruit. There is plenty of structural heft as well, but the tannins are beautifully balanced by the fruit. This is a graceful, harmonious, totally satisfying wine. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age. (AG)
According to Allen Meadows: "Jérôme Chezeaux directs this 11.3 ha domaine, where he practices lutte raisonée (the philosophy of treating only against real rather than anticipated vine threats, such as pests, rot, mildew, etc.). He prunes short and debuds severely as the desire is to avoid a green harvest unless absolutely necessary. The goal is to produce 35 to 40 hl/ha in a normal vintage with sorting taking place in the vineyard under the notion that if one waits until the fruit arrives at the cuvérie, it's already too late because the clean fruit is contaminated by rubbing against the damaged bunches. Chezeaux employs 100% destemming, 3 to 4 days of cool maceration at 10 to 12º C and the fermentations are allowed to jump start themselves with only natural yeasts. The frequency of punch downs vary according to the character of the vintage and condition of the fruit with pump overs to oxygenate the must when necessary. The total cuvaison generally lasts 15 to 18 days followed by a lees settling if required. The wines are allowed to mature in cask for 15 to 18 months with fining or filtration only if deemed necessary. As Chezeaux puts it, 'the less you touch the wine, the better it is.' "
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