Inky ruby. Room-filling bouquet offers blackberry, cassis, cherry-cola, licorice and cured tobacco, with suave floral qualities emerging with aeration. Pliant dark berry flavors possess a liqueur-like concentration yet are lithe and sharply focused, with tangy minerality adding verve. Gains weight and sweetness on the impressively long, sappy finish. This reminded me of a top-drawer Cornas. These vines are at 2,000 feet above sea level. (ST)
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