Green-tinged yellow. Strikingly complex nose evokes lemon curd, pear, anise, chamomile and smoky minerals. Vibrant citrus and orchard fruit flavors are deep and pure, with zesty minerality adding lift and back-end cut. Becomes spicier and smokier on the impressively persistent finish, which offers sweet pear and peach flavors. Lato told me that this wine got 70% new oak, "which is at the outer limit of what I want to do with chardonnay. But the fruit could take it this year." (JR)
Paul Lato's 2010 Chardonnay Le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard is gorgeous. In this vintage, the Souvenir comes across as focused and understated. It boasts striking, crystalline purity in a medium-bodied, attractive style. The 2010 isn't quite as expressive as the 2009, rather it is a model of restrained elegance. (AG)
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