Baron’s 2010 Grenache Rose Edith comes from a few rows in the Armada vineyard that are left un-thinned precisely to permit such a wine. Halfway between classic partridge eye and salmon in color – after having received only a few hours of fermentative skin contact and then been pressed-off with a stainless steel basket – this combines a caressing, subtly creamy texture with delicacy, levity (at a mere 12.7% alcohol) and refreshment. Suggestions of strawberry (fraise du bois) garlanded in buddleia and high-toned green herbs are predictable if enchanting, but I was surprised to encounter a richness akin to veal stock and a savory salinity that taken together sent my salivary glands into palpitations. Gorgeous as this is today, it might be a good idea to save at least one bottle for next year just to experience how it evolves. Inside of a few days – between this wine and Cayuse alumnus Stephen Thompson’s Analemma offering (discussed in my Issue 202 Oregon report) – I tasted the two finest as well as among the most improbable American pink wines of my experience. (DS)
Picked and vinified expressly for this rosé, the grapes were sourced from the Armada Vineyard. It has a pale, copper-like onion-skin shade, it is aged for a year longer than most rosés, but it has lost none of its freshness. The pretty strawberry note gains complexity and textural interest as it lingers on the palate. Persistent, focused, leesy and long, this elegant rosé looks deceptively light, but offers powerful flavors.
Very pale eye-of-the-partridge color, not far off from Krug rose. Very delicate aromas of strawberry, minerals and spices, complicated by a leesy nuance. Quite dry and tactile, with good grip and a bit of skin character to the strawberry and spice flavors. Serious rose with good length. The leesy complexity carries straight through the wine. (ST)
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