Bright yellow. An energetic, highly complex nose displays nectarine, orange zest, minerals and musky lees. Spicy, broad and deeply concentrated but lively as well, with pit fruit and citrus flavors complicated by notes of white pepper and quinine. Shows oily, mouthfilling texture yet avoids coming off as heavy thanks to healthy acidity. Finishes with outstanding persistence and clarity and a firm edge of acidity. (ST)
Not surprisingly, the 2008 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen possesses attractive notes of tropical fruits, brioche, hazelnuts, honeysuckle and that unbuttered popcorn and steely minerality found in many of its siblings. Full-bodied with layers of fruit as well as a terrific finish, this is a young, backward but extremely promising effort. (RP)
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