Readers will find a wine of extraordinary textural finesse and elegance in the 2009 Pinot Noir Hidden Block. Sweet dried cherries, flowers, mint and hard candy are some of the notes that take shape in the glass. The finish turns a bit ethereal, but there is more than enough depth in the fruit to make me think the 2009 will drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Brothers Bob and Jim Varner craft the Neely wines from the same Santa Cruz Mountains vineyards that inform their own Varner label. (AG)
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