There is a noticeable if subtle application of wood that surrounds the fresh and highly complex aromas of green fruit, oyster shell and algae. The rich, full-bodied, dense and quite serious flavors possess an almost pungent minerality on the iodine-suffused flavors that culminate in a palate staining, explosive and mouth coating finish that is clean, very dry and moderately austere. This should also be remarkable in time.
Moreau’s 2010 Chablis Valmur shows the pedigree of this great site in its deceptively medium-bodied, at times weightless, personality. There is plenty of depth in the glass, but it needs time to emerge. Still, I very much like the energy and delineation, both of which elevate the Valmur to a significant degree. Orange blossom, nectarine and flowers leave a lasting impression. The richness that is typical of Valmur is nicely buffered by underlying veins of minerality. (AG)
Bright pale yellow. Subdued but precise aromas of fresh apricot and peach, acacia flower and flint. Rich and supple but subtle and quite dry, with the fresh peach flavor carrying through in the mouth. Not quite as detailed as the Vaudesir but the subtle, slowly rising finish boasts excellent breadth and persistence. Fabien Moreau notes that this grand cru used to be more massive here but has been getting tighter and fresher in recent years--a change that he attributes to his family's biodynamic practices. (ST)
A glint of spicy oak frames the melon, apple, lemon and oyster shell flavors in this intense white. Bright and well-balanced, finishing long and stony. Best from 2013 through 2020.
Refined, restrained and still fragrant. Powerful up front then long on the finish, and there's good depth in the middle.
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