The 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux was still in three lots segregated by age and location of vines when I tasted – each fascinatingly delicious in itself, and the concentration of the old vines portion in itself almost too severe. Fascinating dark berry, carnal and mineral notes mingle in the nose. Low-tone sirloin meatiness, black cherry, cassis, faintly bitter black chocolate, and toasted hickory inform a glycerin-rich, polished, yet firmly structured palate. Notes of licorice, horehound, and mineral salts add complexity to a finish of palate-staining intensity and grip. This superb Pommard should require 5-7 years of cellaring and reward considerably more. (DS)
A notably ripe and beautifully layered nose features black fruit compote that is cut with plenty of spice, earth and a hint of the sauvage. The dense, ripe and hugely powerful broad-shouldered flavors possess immense mid-palate concentration while delivering genuinely remarkable length on the velvety finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. This is a big, bad Pommard and I underscore that this is going to require every bit of another decade to reach its apogee and 2030 to 2035 would not surprise me. Note that one one example that I tried in 2015 was quite advanced though why it was I couldn't say.
Saturated ruby. Superripe but fresh aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Sweet but not quite jammy, with very rich and distinctly black fruit flavors complicated by spices and bitter chocolate. A Pommard of compelling depth and verve, with flavors mounting slowly and inexorably to take over the entire palate. Finishes very long, with a boatload of tannins. This is huge in terms of its fruit, tannins, alcohol (14%) and acidity (the pH is just 3.3). Leroux believes that it's even riper than the 1990 version, but notes that this style of wine 'is not why I'm working in Burgundy.' This should evolve in bottle for at least two decades, but I believe it's already beginning to shut down. (ST) 93+
Truffley, autumnal, very rich. Dense – truly profound. Benjamin Leroux is clearly doing a great job here. (JR) 18.5/20
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