'For me, this vintage is what makes Margaux special,' says Margaux winemaker Paul Pontallier. He is right: With its denseness, spice, flavors of black currants layered with dryness and fresh acidity, this is a huge and impressive wine that never forgets that it is Margaux. It is still young, and the dry tannic aftertaste, which lasts for many minutes, shows this.
The 2004 Chateau Margaux has always been a promising wine and here, served blind against the First Growths, it finally proved that patience is necessary when it comes to such wines. It has an exquisite bouquet with brilliant delineation, scents of redcurrant, raspberry coulis, cold stone (almost flint-like) with pencil-lead and cedar lending it a Pauillac-like sense of aristocratic flair. The palate is extremely well balanced with a supple opening, nigh perfect acidity with a surprisingly citric undercurrent that lends so much freshness and tension. While it does not have the weight and power of say, 2000, 2005 or 2009, it cruises along with utmost harmony and you become smitten by its charms - something that is perhaps in short supply among the First Growths in this vintage. This is excellent. (NM)
Enticing aromas of boysenberry, cedar, espresso and roasted oak. Sweet, lush and broad in the mouth, with sappy berry and espresso flavors. This boasts the pliant texture and near-perfect balance of the vintage's best examples. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins.
Subtle and very perfumed with floral, currants, minerals and berry aromas with a hint of toasted barrels. Medium- to full-bodied, with an outstandingly refined core of fruit and smoky, earthy, berry and almost meaty character. It's long and caressing. Could use a bit more fruit to be up with the other first-growths.
Dark ruby. First impression is mocha, and toast, becoming more savoury and tobacco leaf with air. A bit lean in the middle, very fresh, tannins feel quite tight, dry and a bit furry, the finish also rather tied up by those tannins, which are dry at the very end... (JH)17/20
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