Dry and well-focused, this Riesling shows power and definition, remaining well-meshed and accessible. Displays anise and apple pâte de fruit accents, with flavors of juicy pear, apricot tart, melon rind, lychee and honey, followed by a stony mineral note on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 60 cases imported. –AN
Humbrechts’ 2011 Riesling Rangen Clos Saint Urbain (last tasted from cask) smells of smoked meat and peat, struck flint and sage, for a characteristic – indeed, heightened – sense of pungent site-typicity. Kumquat and orange rinds, toasted pecan and black tea add bittersweet allure. This is more expansive but less engagingly juicy or focused than most of its fellow Rieslings in the present collection. That said, it conveys an impressive, upwelling sense of energy and finishes with formidable sheer grip. It should be fascinating to follow through at least 2028. (DS)
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